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5 Must-Have Indian Handloom Saris for Every Woman’s Wardrobe

The love story of a six-yard garment – a sari and a woman is magical. The sari can completely transform the look of a woman and give her a different identity. Saris, woven handloom saris are a notch apart, which showcases the history and rich culture of India, which makes them a delight to wear. We list out 5 different types of Indian handloom saris that will inspire you to drape one.

1. Banarasi

Banarasi sari is a non-negotiable part of the wedding trousseau – in many parts of India.

Origin & History:

Banarasi (also spelt as) Benarasi sari, originated from the city of Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, needs little introduction. These saris have their roots in the deep cultural history of India and are mentioned in Mahabharata and the Buddhist scriptures.

The Making:

 In the olden days, crafted exclusively for royalty, each Banarasi sari was created with real ‘zari’ (pure gold and silver threads) and it almost took the artisans about a year to make one single piece. A Banarasi sari has immense threadwork moving through it. An ideal Banarasi sari contains 5,600 thread wires, moving through it.

Designs & Patterns:

 This sari can be classified into various categories depending on the designs Jangla, Vaskat, Tanchoi, Cutwork, Butidar, and Tissue.

How to Identify an Original Banarasi Sari:

Due to the increase in prices of gold and silver, copper is now used in creating ‘zari’ threads, later these threads are plated in gold and silver. To ensure that you are not scammed, look for a GI (Geographical Indication) tag and motifs such as floral patterns, leaves, and jali work, which are characteristic of the Banarasi sari.

Price Range:

A genuine Banarasi silk sari will range from ₹ 8,000 to ₹ 2, 00,000 depending on the design and the intricacy of the work.

Care Guide:

It is recommended to dry clean Banarasi saris and wrap them in muslin cloth. Change folds from time to time.

2. Kanjeevaram Silk:

Kanjeevaram silk sari is a perfect outfit choice when you are looking for a classy ethnic option for weddings or festive occasions and celebrations.

Origin & History:

‘Kanjeevaram’ aka ‘Kanchipuram’ silk sari is traditionally woven in the Kanchipuram region of Tamil Nadu. This sari is often considered as South Indian version of the Banarasi sari.

The Making:

 Kanjeevaram silk saris are woven from pure mulberry silk, while the silk belongs to South India, and pure gold and silver threads, called zari, come from Gujarat. The colours and designs of the body and pallu of the Kanchipuram sari are quite different, the weavers weave them separately and then join them. You can spot a zig-zag pattern – known as the ‘pitni’, where the body meets the pallu. Also, the border of the sari is weaved separately and then join the three together. The joining of the three is known as ‘Kovai’ and is done with such precision that even if the sari tears, the border will not detach. 

Designs & Patterns:

The border of the Kanchipuram sari comprises motifs inspired by the temples and palaces in the Kanchipuram region and the body and pallu comprise pyramidal temple designs, stripes, checks, and floral buttas. 

How to Identify an Original Kanchipuram Sari:

To identify a genuine Kanchipuram sari look for the Silk Mark (that is given to pure Kanchipuram silk sari). Another easy way is to look for loose ends of the zari in the sari. Pure zari is made of red silk thread and is twisted with a silver thread and dipped in gold. If you find the zari thread white or any other colour, you can be certain that this sari is a fake.

Price Range:

An original Kanjeevaram silk sari will range from ₹ 7,000 to ₹ 2, 00,000 depending upon the fabric and the intricacy of the work.

Care Guide:

It is recommended to dry clean the sari. Store the sari in a separate sari bag.

3. Paithani:

 Paithani sari holds a special place in the trousseau of every Maharashtrian bride. This sari symbolises the spirit of true Maharashtrian culture and is rightly called the ‘Queen of Silks’ because only royals once wore it. The typical Paithani is either ‘sahavari’ (six yards) or ‘nauvari’ (nine yards) in length, and the width, including the zar, is one panna (44 inches).

Origin & History:

This fine silk handloom sari got its name from the town in which was originated, that is Paithan in Aurangabad, Maharashtra and truly flourished during the rule of the Mughals particularly during the rule of Aurangzeb.

The Making:

A typical Paithani sari consists of a set of components – the body, decorative edge (padar) and borders (zari kath). The preparation of the loom is a significant element to guarantee the precision of the weave. The timeline to produce the sari depends on the weaver’s measured and cautious harmonisation of an eye, hand, and foot to create a free-flowing, handmade sari and can take anything between six months to two years, depending on the intricacy of the design. The figuring weave is obtained by a plain tapestry technique, and the three main types of weaving include an interlocking method, the split tapestry weave, and the dove-tailing method.

Designs & Patterns:

The phenomenal weave makes a sparkling intermingling of hues that creates the delicate illusion of shifting colours. The pallu design usually consists of traditional motifs that include the Muniya (parrot), the Panja (geometrical flower-like motif), the Barwa (twelve strands of a ladder and three strands on each side), and the traditional Mor (peacock). However, during the Peshwa period, the Ashrafi motif, the Hans motif, and the Asawalli motif were equally popular. 

How to Identify an Original Paithani Sari:

An exclusive feature of a Paithani sari is that both sides look the same. This makes it a valuable way of differentiating an original sari from the fakes in the market. Also, an original Paithani sari can be identified by its characteristics ‘kath’ and ‘padar’ which have traditional motifs like the Narali (coconut), and pankha(fan shapes) on the border. Always look for pop colours such as greens, yellows, sky blues, reds, purples, magentas, and peach pinks.

Price Range:

An original Paithani sari will range from ₹ 10,000 to ₹ 4, 00,000 depending upon the fabric and the intricacy of the work.

Care Guide:

To extend the longevity of the sari, spread the sari in a dry place after every use and let it breathe for a day. Once done airing out the sari, change the folds and wrap it with a cloth or place it in a muslin bag before storing it in your closet.

4. Chanderi:

Chanderi sari is a traditional handloom sari from the town of Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh, India. It is known for its sheer texture, lightweight, and elegant look, making it perfect for summer and formal occasions.

Origin & History:

The history of Chanderi saris can be traced back to the Vedic period, but it was during the Mughal era that it gained popularity. The sari gets its name from the town of Chanderi, which was a hub for the weaving of cotton, silk, and muslin fabrics. The weavers here used to create intricate designs on fabrics, which attracted the attention of the royal families.

The Making:

Chanderi saris are made of three types of fabric – pure silk, Chanderi cotton, and silk cotton. The weaving process involves three steps – preparing the warp, weft, and border. The threads used in making Chanderi saris are very fine, making the sari lightweight and easy to drape. The zari work in Chanderi saris is done with gold or silver threads, giving the sari a royal touch.

Designs & Patterns:

Chanderi saris come in various designs and patterns, including floral, geometric, and peacock motifs. The borders of the sari are usually broad and have intricate work. Some Chanderi saris also have buti work, which is small designs scattered across the sari.

How to Identify an Original Chanderi Sari:

To identify an original Chanderi sari, look for the Chanderi silk mark, which is a government-issued trademark for Chanderi handloom products. Also, check the texture of the sari – it should be sheer and lightweight. The zari work should be intricately done, and the design should be consistent across the sari.

Price Range:

The price of Chanderi saris varies depending on the fabric, design, and intricacy of the work. A pure silk Chanderi sari can cost between ₹3,000 to ₹50,000, while a cotton Chanderi sari can cost between ₹1,000 to ₹15,000.

Care Guide:

Chanderi saris should be dry cleaned or washed in cold water. Avoid drying them in direct sunlight, and store them in a cool and dry place. Iron the sari in a low heat setting to avoid damaging the fabric.

5. Patola Sari:

Patola sari is a luxurious handloom silk sari that originated in Gujarat, India. It is a popular choice for weddings, grand occasions, and festivities due to its exquisite designs and vibrant colours.

Origin & History:

Patola sari is a traditional sari that is woven in the Patan region of Gujarat, India. The history of the Patola sari can be traced back to the 12th century, and it was worn by royalty and wealthy families. The intricate weaving process and the use of pure silk and natural dyes make the Patola sari an expensive and exclusive sari.

The Making:

The weaving process of the Patola sari is complex and time-consuming. The sari is woven using the double-ikat technique, which means that both the warp and weft threads are dyed before weaving. The threads are tied and dyed separately to create intricate geometric patterns and designs. The weaving process takes several months and involves highly skilled artisans.

Designs & Patterns:

Patola sari is known for its bold and intricate designs, including geometric shapes, floral motifs, and animal designs. The designs are symmetrical and vibrant, and the colours used are primarily natural dyes. The most popular colours used in the Patola sari are red, green, yellow, and black.

How to Identify an Original Patola Sari:

An original Patola sari is made from pure silk and uses natural dyes. The designs are intricate and symmetrical, with no bleeding of colours. The weaving process is double-ikat, which means that the patterns on both sides of the sari are identical.

Price Range:

A Patola sari can range from ₹ 10,000 to ₹ 1,50,000, depending on the intricacy of the design and the quality of the silk used.

Care Guide:

Patola sari should be dry cleaned and stored in a separate bag to prevent damage. It is advisable to avoid direct sunlight and damp areas while storing the sari.

Indian handloom saris stand as timeless symbols of elegance, tradition, and craftsmanship, representing the rich cultural heritage of India. These five must-have varieties offer a diverse range of styles, from the vibrant hues of Banarasi silk to the intricate weaves of Kanjeevaram, catering to every woman’s taste and occasion. Embracing these saris in one’s wardrobe not only adds a touch of grace and sophistication but also fosters the preservation of age-old artisanal traditions.

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